A Lesbian Guide to Lesvos: The Secret Greek Island
This blog post features links and information which have been obtained on a press trip. However, as always, all opinions shared in this post are my own.
When the Greek National Tourism Board approached me about visiting Lesvos as part of a travel campaign, I was intrigued. Aside from the poet Sappho, I knew little about this island and struggled to learn much more online.
My curiosity got the better of me. After all, who doesn’t love to get off the beaten path? So I flew direct from the UK to Lesvos to spend four nights on the island, and what I found was unlike anything I’d ever experienced.
Lesvos reflected the photos and home videos my parents had of our trips to Greece back in the 90s when I was just a baby. Despite a healthy level of tourism here, the island has remained very traditional. There’s no McDonald’s, Spar, Uber or chain hotels. Instead, everything is local and family run.
It’s that traditional vibe that visitors to Lesvos love and what keeps people coming back to the island year after year. In fact, most of the tourists I spoke to in Lesvos had been coming to the island for 20, 30 or even 40 years.
As a result the relationship between tourists and locals is unlike anywhere else I’ve ever visited. For example, on my first night in the village of Skala Eressos, I spoke to a group of women who’d been visiting the island for 20+ years who had just attended the funeral of a village resident.
In a place where everyone knows everyone, it’s easy to stand out, like it’s your first day at a new school all over again. However, this wasn’t high school, and I wasn’t left to sit alone and feel uncomfortable.
Instead, I was invited to talk to people, eat with people, and be introduced to more people. In just four days, I met more people in Lesvos than I did in the city where I live in England.
I visited Lesvos on a four night press trip in June 2024, based in Skala Eressos, and refreshed every detail for the 2026 season. Flights, festival dates, transport costs and the hotels below were all checked against official 2026 sources before publishing.
Is Lesvos Safe to Visit?
When I told my parents I was going to Lesvos, my dad responded, “It’s not safe!” I’ve travelled all over the world to places far more remote and dangerous than Greece, and he has never really questioned it. So why now?
Around ten years ago, there were several media reports about refugees travelling from Turkey to Lesvos.
In my research on this topic, I found most articles dated between 2012 and 2015 with no follow-up on the situation today. So I decided that the only way I was going to find out if Lesvos was safe was to visit it myself.
I flew to Lesvos solo on a Jet2 flight from Manchester. Jet2 is the only airline that flies direct from the UK (Manchester, London Stansted and Birmingham) to Mytilene (Lesvos) with a flight time of around 3 hours 50 minutes.
Unlike most people on my flight, I didn’t book a holiday package. Instead, I took the less-travelled route. Staying in the village of Skala Eressos, I explored the island of Lesvos alone in my hire car.
During my visit, I met locals, tourists, and expats. However, I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable while in Lesvos.
I personally saw no refugees on my visit to Lesvos. However, from speaking to locals, I know there is a small camp (the Kara Tepe refugee camp) in the capital city of Mytilene.
Skala Eressos is tiny and walkable, and the seafront stays lively and well lit into the evening, so it is easy and comfortable to get around on foot once you are there.
Where to Stay in Lesvos
There are a small number of towns and villages in Lesvos that have tourist developments. They include:
- Skala Eressos
- Petra
- Molyvos
- Anaxos
- Skala Kallonis
I stayed in Skala Eressos during my trip and visited Petra and Molyvos. Don’t get me wrong; there’s nothing bad about Petra or Molyvos. But if I were to go to Lesvos again, I’d return to Skala Eressos.
Skala Eressos is a 90-minute drive from Mytilene Airport, where 99% of lesbians visiting Lesvos stay. The village is small and walkable, with a handful of bars, restaurants, and shops but a thriving female community, so you are never far from the beach.
Given the limited number of accommodation options available, popular places fill up a year in advance for peak times such as the September festivals. Some of my favourite accommodation options include:
Sappho Hotel
A simple two-star spot right on the seafront in the centre of the village, steps from the beach bars. Best if you want to be in the middle of everything.
Check 2026 prices ›Ohana Rooms
A relaxed, self-catering guesthouse a short walk back from the beach. Best for a quiet, independent stay.
Check 2026 prices ›Galini Hotel
A small, friendly hotel a few minutes from the seafront, a solid middle option when the beachfront places are full.
Check 2026 prices ›How to Travel Around Lesvos
Lesvos is the third largest Greek island, so you’ll want to consider how you’re going to get around. More specifically, how you’re going to travel:
- From the airport to your accommodation
- Around the island, should you wish to go out and explore
There are three ways you can travel around Lesvos:
| Option | Cost | Journey time | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hire car | From around €50 (£43) a day | About 90 minutes (80 km) | Exploring the whole island |
| Taxi | Roughly €90 to €140 (£77 to £120) | About 90 minutes | Fuss free, door to door |
| Bus (KTEL) | From around €10 (£8.50) one way | About 2.5 hours, 1 to 2 a day | Budget, if the timings suit |
Given that I was going to spend a lot of time exploring Lesvos, I opted for a hire car (around €50 a day) which gave me a lot of flexibility. However, most regular visitors to the island were surprised by my decision, and most of them got a taxi instead.
Lesvos Beaches
Given the size of Lesvos, there are many beaches to choose from, each offering something unique.
| Beach | Where | What it is like |
|---|---|---|
| Skala Eressos | West | Dark sand and shingle with calm, shallow water and some of the island’s best sunsets. The heart of the LGBTQ scene, with a quieter clothing-optional stretch past the river. |
| Vatera | South | The island’s longest beach, around eight kilometres of sand and shingle with warm, clean water. Family-friendly and rarely crowded. |
| Molyvos | North | A long sand-and-shingle beach below the castle town, shallow and well set up for watersports. |
| Petra | North | Sand and shingle backed by pine trees, with beach bars and watersports, a few minutes from Molyvos. |
| Anaxos | North | A short, sandy, shallow stretch that is popular with families. |
| Eftalou | North | Pebbly coves with natural thermal hot springs bubbling up right beside the sea. |
| Sigri | West | A sheltered, sandy bay with castle views, easy to pair with a trip to the Petrified Forest. |
Since I was staying in Skala Eressos, I spent most of my time on the beach here and really enjoyed the laid-back vibe. I also visited Sigri beach on a trip to the Petrified Forest, which was a bit too quiet and isolated for me but seemed popular with locals.
Things to Do in Lesvos
There’s lots to do in Lesvos. However, much like the island as a whole, nothing here is specifically built for tourists.
Instead, most attractions are natural or historical. This makes the island popular with birdwatchers, yoga enthusiasts, hikers and cyclists. Some of the best things I experienced in Lesvos included:
- Castle of Molyvos
- Hammam Baths & Spa
- Skala Women’s Rock Group
The Petrified Forest was my favourite attraction. The whole island is a UNESCO Global Geopark, and the forest at its heart dates back around 20 million years, to when volcanic ash buried a subtropical woodland and slowly turned it to stone.
I started my day trip to the Petrified Forest at the Natural History Museum in Sigri, which provides the foundational education you need to understand and appreciate everything that’s happened to create the forest.
The museum is open daily from 9am to 5pm and costs €10 (around £8.50) in 2026, which includes entry to the forest parks.
Events in Lesvos
The island of Lesvos holds several events throughout the year. Some of the most popular include:
International Eressos Women’s Festival
An eleven-day celebration of women in Skala Eressos, the birthplace of Sappho. It is a warm, welcoming space to connect, share experiences and find solidarity.
Festival website ›Lesvos Euphoria International Festival
A shorter festival celebrating the island’s alternative character and energy, drawing yoga instructors from around the world to a place that has been a yoga destination since the 1960s.
Festival website ›Frequently Asked Questions
A few things people often ask me before booking a trip to Lesvos:
Is Lesvos safe to visit?
Yes. I travelled around solo by hire car and never felt unsafe. The refugee reports that once worried some readers date from 2012 to 2015, and day to day island life is calm and welcoming.
When is the best time to visit Lesvos?
May, June and September are the sweet spot, with warm sea, quieter beaches and the September festivals. July and August are the hottest and busiest months, so book accommodation early if you travel then.
Do I need to hire a car in Lesvos?
Not necessarily. I hired one for the freedom to explore, but most regular visitors rely on taxis and the local bus. Hire a car if you want to reach the Petrified Forest and the quieter beaches easily.
Is Skala Eressos only for lesbians?
No. Skala Eressos is well known as a women’s and lesbian destination with a strong female community, but everyone is welcome. Couples, solo travellers and families all stay in the village too.
How do I get to Lesvos from the UK?
Jet2 flies direct to Lesvos (Mytilene) from Manchester, London Stansted and Birmingham, from around £34 one way in 2026. The flight takes roughly three hours fifty, and Skala Eressos is about 90 minutes from the airport.
How many days do you need in Lesvos?
Four nights is enough for a first taste, which is what I did. A week lets you settle into village life, drive out to the Petrified Forest and explore the north around Molyvos without rushing.
Let’s Chat!
Thanks for stopping by! Do you have experience with this trip or want to share some of your own tips? We’d love to hear about it! Comment below and let’s chat!